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Aig. du Midi N face – Mallory route 27.05.2013

3800 m ; 800 m 50°- 55° ; North ; TD+ ; 5.4/ E4
Mallory-line

The spring has still not yet arrived here in the Alps, it just keeps dumping. I have never seen the mountains plastered in so much snow and it has been a while since we have had any sun in Chamonix except for few rare and quick minute windows.
Last Sunday the forecast looked like it was going to give some compassion to the junky community, so I headed to the Aiguille du Midi station where I meet up with Ben Briggs.
Just before getting on the bin, Ben realized he had brought skis with pin bindings which did not fit with the alpine toe pieces on his boots. So whilst Ben went home to change his stuff I went up to the top.
I was one of only four skiers on the bin and we were surrounded by a big group of noisy Japanese tourists. The North face looked overloaded, the weather was coming in and it had been two weeks since I had last ridden on the mountain and did not want to lose the window. I decided to go for a Cosmique or a Glacier Ronde with Oli Herren, Tof Henry and Damien Deschamps. We ended up riding a ridiculously deep Cosmique…Epic !
Whilst I was lost in the fog trying to find the way back to the middle station, Ben called me saying “I have just ridden the Mallory with no raps !”…Bastard !
At the middle station I caught up with Pika and Dave Rosembarger, both motivated to go up for a second lap.
We skied the Mallory, straight line out of the cave (with a 3 m of straight line on the ice) and along with rare amazing snow conditions. The clouds were moving fast so we rode it pretty fast and had no time to take any pictures.

Pika
First time i ride the straight line without going round…normally there s a big serac there

Pika
Pika

Luca

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